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What are the do's and don'ts of dry-walling? PDF Print E-mail
Sunday, 03 February 2013

Among the huge numbers of phone calls and e-mails we get from DIY-ers that pass our desk, we get in some really straight and to the point questions that we feel other readers may get some useful information from and we like to share these.  The following is one of those questions:-

"I am looking at doing an alteration in dry walling and would like advice on some of the do's and dont's associated with this type of construction?"

Les's response:

There are a few points to consider. I am presuming that you will be using timber for your framing. The choice of good straight timber ( 114x38 and 114x50 SA Pine) is a must. The timber available is often slightly bowed or twisted so pick your pieces. For your inside walls you should use the 15mm Firestop Rhinoboard for your main walls and the water resistant pink one for bathrooms. Leave a 10mm gap between the floor and the bottom of the board using a spacer (a cover strip is ideal) so that moisture from the floor can not get into the underside of the board. An essential item is that you sound proof the walls with 100mm CavityBatt. Taping and skimming the joints in the board with cretestone is a trick that takes a bit of practice. On the exterior walls you can use either the narrow or broad Nutec building planks or the flat sheets or a combination of the two. I would advise that you consider lining the outside of the exterior wall with 6mm OSB board and treat it with a waterproof paint before fixing the planks.

Alternatively you can install a layer of sisalation as a damp proof layer. Sisalation will assist with insulating the wall but I would still install Cavitybatt into the wall for sound proofing.

There are other practical tricks that you will learn as you progress but these can only be learned the hard way.


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